Well after leaving the cruise unwell things got worse - with May Day and different changes of city I didn't get to the doctor until Monday 04/05 in St Jean Pied de Port at 8pm at night - by then I was really not well. Started the treatment and tried to change first night booking on Camino but was unable to - so had to start on 06/05 as planned.
We stayed at Belairi Albergue in St Jean Pied de Port - luckily Neil had booked for 2 nights - great place and because I was so sick gave us our own room second night. Joxalou was the host and he had everyone eat together spending first hour explaining Camino and introducing us all to each other - thus forming our first Camino relationships.
Wednesday 06/05 day 1 we headed out after everyone else about 8.30am and spent first 3km first down and then up guiding multi nationals onto the correct path. As we set out on the 850m vertical climb over 8.5km to Orisson. After an 1.5 hr of climbing up the roadway it was obvious to Neil (and me) that I wasn't in any medical or physical condition for this task. We rested, with many others that had left before us 1/2km short of Huntto. From which we then pushed on for a coffee break. The track then left the road and zigzagged up the road to Kayola where we rejoined the road to Orisson - never thought I would make it. Orisson offered a room to ourselves without heating - a welcome gift. Did our washing and had pilgrim meal and group intros - catching up with quite a few from Belairi.
Thursday Day 2 - we decided that I wasn't fit for trip to Roncesvalles - same climb again and then down. Right decision Neil described as very hard and vicious freezing cold wind - with the downhill very steep and dangerous. I caught taxi at quite an expense and sat in the sun for the day - meeting Neil at the entry to Roncesvalles. I had booked into Albergue at the Monastery- a pleasant surprise - as expected so tired didn't really matter that you are sleeping with a couple hundred people.
Friday - day 3 - we got going pretty quickly with no breaky. First 3.5km went quickly to Burgette for coffee and toilet stop. Undulating territory with a couple of steep climbs with lunch at Viskarrat - I was travelling fairly well with backpack for first day. We then knew we had a big climb in front and when we got to Linzoan Neil decided to go ahead and book in at Zubiri some 11km away. When Neil reached there the first 3 Albergue were full but found one to book into. Neil went back to the bridge and waited for me for 1.5 hrs - just as well he went ahead as when I got in no beds to be had. At dinner that night in the Albergue - our table had only one Frenchman that could not speak English though we attempted to communicate with him. We had many nationalities - all getting on really well. I wasn't sure I was going to make the last couple of kms - absolutely exhausted - but I did.
Saturday Day 4 - with 22km day before had taken its toll on me and we elected on a short stage of 7 km to Larasona. During this stage I let the good Lord know that my illness was enough and my body was suffering from the illness and having had antibiotics for the first time in 20/25 years. Neil booked in early to the Albergue claiming my illness - had a sleep and then at dinner time my first Camino angel appeared. A Chinese doctor who offered treatment and acupuncture and some Chinese herbal tea - refusing any payment. We bumped into Dermot from Ring of Kerry, Jim from America heading for a hospitalero job and 4 Irish women walking for 10 days having there gear transported each day - that we had met the day before.
Sunday Day 5 - Larasona to Pamplona - we of course chose the original route - lots of ups and downs - through Zurian, Arre, on the extreme outskirts of Pamplona and about 2 more hours into Centre of old town. Great to see the use of the town squares by residential population particularly 3 generations of families - lots of little kids. We booked into Jesus & Mary Monastery - very well reconstructed church - clean and tidy though 112 beds. While exploring town bumped into Camino angels - Chinese doctor again who insisted on same treatment again - still no payment. Have given them our contacts for an Australian visit. We bumped into Dermot (from Ring of Kerry) again while dining at a Michelin restaurant and had time with him again.
Monday Day 6 - I woke feeling a lot better though my ear was still blocked. I was starting to wonder if there was something I wasn't listening to. We chose to do another short day 11.5km to Zariquiegui - just as well I thought I was not going to make it up the steep last hill - Neil going ahead to book in and coming back to check on me. 5 double bunks in tiny room - got our washing done though and so tired didn't really matter.
Tuesday day 7 - Zariquiegui to Puente LA Rena - ready for steep climb over the mountain and passing Alto Pardon at 750m - where the metal peregrinos are. Down to Euterga, Obanos and through Puente LA Riena over bridge and to Albergue on top of the hill(of course) - Albergue Santiago Apostal.
Accommodation has been surprisingly clean - ability to wash - and as anticipated to tired to care about others around me.
Shell and Neil.
Sorry no photos can't figure out how to add from phone where they all are. Heaps on Facebook at Shell and Neil SKIing.
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